Fallas, part I

Yep, it's officially Fallas season in Valencia. I woke up this morning to discover that, some time during the night, they had hung Valencian flags all up and down my street. Walking around the city, there's no mistaking the festivity in the air:
- Christmas light-like banners hang expectantly above main streets,
- Food stands are set up and waiting to sell buñuelos (similar to churros, or fried dough) and other Fallas foods,
- Posters are plastered all over the city, advertising expositions and events related to the fallas themselves.

But really, you can't even imagine just how big the Fallas celebration is in Valencia. When I arrived back in September, I would meet people and they would ask me 1) where I was from, 2) if I liked Valencia, and 3) whether I had ever seen Fallas. And that was six months ago. Starting about a month ago, someone has talked to me or asked me about Fallas every single day - Are you ready for Fallas? Are you going to be here for Fallas? Are you excited for Fallas? I kid you not, I walk down the street and hear the word "Fallas" in the conversations of half the people I pass.

Let me attempt to explain the madness that is Fallas in Valencia. Families donate money to local artisan groups, which work year-round to construct giant float-like structures that depict scenes and characters, often with satirical themes. These floats, or "fallas," are displayed for five days (March 15-19) on street corners throughout the city. On the night of March 19, all the fallas are burned. Imagine GIANT bonfires. The pyrotechnics also include daily "mascletas," or huge explosions of firecrackers that literally shake the ground for 15 minutes straight, in the city's main plaza beginning March 1, as well as fireworks shows at night during the five days of Fallas. Children get days off of school during Fallas, and it's basically one giant, city-wide party that lasts for days on end. At least, that's what I gather.

This afternoon I went to visit the exposition of "ninots," or single-character statues that comprise a fall. The best ninot is taken from each falla and put on display for the public to vote on their favorites. One ninot is chosen each year to save and to be displayed in Valencia's Fallas museum. The rest are put back in their fallas  on March 15 and then burned with all the rest on March 19. We happen to have a ninot in our apartment from years ago… his name is Paco. Personally, I think he's kind of creepy. Tomorrow is a big gathering at one of the medieval towers in the city, and I think it marks an official beginning to Fallas.

And so, let the celebration begin!